Coastal dynamics in the barrier reef located in the northeastern sector of San Andres Island, Colombian Caribbean
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26640/22159045.2021.525Keywords:
Coral reef, coastal hydrodynamics, numerical modeling, wave climatology, critical wave breaking height.Abstract
The breaking wave-induced hydrodynamics over the coral reef barrier of the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve, located in the northeast sector of the San Andrés Island, was characterized. Similarly, the effects of the coral reef on possible hydrodynamic processes and its function as a natural barrier against coastal erosion in adjacent areas were described. For this study, high-resolution bathymetric information was obtained via echo-sounding and data-processing of satellite images of the shallower areas. Furthermore, numerical modelling using the Lithodynamic Coastal Zone (LIZC; Litodinámico de la Zona Costera) model along with the spectral wave module (SWAN; Simulating Wave Nearshore) was performed. Additionally, real-time modelling (now-casting) run throughout one year provided details on dynamic patterns and determined the breaking point of the waves upon their arrival to the coral reef. Results displayed a bi-modal behavior of the studied area’s hydrodynamics which was significantly dependent on the waves’ height, period, and direction thresholds. Moreover, the average wave energy flow was identified as being responsible for the evolutionary growth of the barrier on its current location and orientation. Although this pilot study focused on the northeast sector of the San Andrés Island, the present methodology could be applied on similar scenarios where shorelines are naturally protected by coral reefs.
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References
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Gamboa, L., & Posada, B. O. (2012). Geología del archipiélago de San Andrés, Providencia y Santa Catalina. En CORALINA-INVEMAR, Atlas de la Reserva de Biósfera Seaflower. (págs. 36-46). Santa Marta: Ediprint Ltda.
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Gemma L, F., Mariño-Tapia, I., & Torres-Freyermuth, A. (2013). Effects of reef roughness on wave setup and surf zone currents. Journal of Coastal Research 165: 2005–2010. https://doi.org/ 10.2112/SI65-339.1.
Gemma L, F., Torres-Freyermuth, A., Medellin, G., Allende-Arandia, M., & Appendini, C. (2018). The role of the reef–dune system in coastal protection in Puerto Morelos (Mexico). Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 18, 1247-1260.
Instituto de Hidrología, Meteorología y Estudios Ambientales, IDEAM. (2018). IDEAM. Obtenido de http://www.ideam.gov.co/web/tiempo-y-clima/
Instituto de Hidrología, Meteorología y Estudios Ambientales, IDEAM. (2017). IDEAM. Obtenido de: http://www.ideam.gov.co/documents/21021/137236/CARTILLA+CARIBE+2018/2a0d6363-3092-4846-9f00-28fe55f9a6c2?version=1.2
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Longuet-Higgins, M., & Stewart, R. (1962). Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’. Fluid Mech. 13, 481. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877.
Longuet-Higgins, M., & Stewart, R. (1964). Radiation stresses in water waves. A physical discussion, with applications. Deep-Sea Res., 11, 529-562.
Lonin, S. (2002a). Un Modelo Morfodinámico para la Zona Costera del Caribe Colombiano. En Boletin Científico CIOH No. 20 (págs. 5-17). Cartagena de Indias, D. T. y C.: CIOH.
Lonin, S. (2002b). Aplicación del modelo LIZC (CIOH) para el estudio de la dinámica de playa en un sector del Golfo de Morrosquillo. Boletín Científico CIOH No. 20. Octubre de 2002, 18-27.
Lonin, S. (2009). Modelación numérica en oceanología. DIMAR, CAN, Santafé de Bogotá, Colombia.
Lonin, S., Orfila Forster, A., Simarro Grande, G., Galán Alguacil, A., Alvarez Ellacuría, A., Murillo, N., Platz, C. & Torres, R. (2018). Propagación de oleaje y transporte de sedimentos sobre arrecifes de coral. Estrategias de gestión ante el cambio global. Cartagena.
López Dupre, A. F. (2012). Comparación de la estructura íctica del arrecife artificial "Blue Diamond" y el arrecife natural aledaño, en la Isla de San Andrés, Caribe colombiano. Bogotá D.C.
Lugo-Fernandez, A., Roberts, H., & Suhayda, J. (1998). Wave transformations across a Caribbean fringing-barrier coral reef. Cont. Shelf Res., 18, 1099–1124.
Massel, S. (1996). Ocean surface waves. Their physiscs and prediction. En C. Dagua, Influencia de eventos de corto y mediano plazo en el oleaje del mar Caribe. (pág. 37). Cartagena, D. T. y C.: Tesis de Maestría.
Monismith, SG. (2007). Hydrodynamics of Coral Reefs. Annu Rev Fluid Mech 39:37–55.
Montaggioni, L.F. & Braithwaite, C.J.R., (2009). Chapter three structure, zonation and dynamic patterns of coral reef communities. In: Montaggion, L.F., Braithwaite, C.J.R. (Eds.), Quaternary Coral Reef Systems: History, Development Processes and Controlling Factors. Elsevier, pp. 67–122. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S1572-5480(09)05003-9.
NOAA, N. O. (2019). User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III version 6.07. Obtenido de National Weather Service, Environmental Modeling Center: https://github.com/NOAA-EMC/WW3/wiki/Manual
Orfila, A., Jordi, A., Basterretxea, G., Vizoso, G., Marba, N., Duarte, C.M., Tintore, J., & Werner, C. (2005). Residence Time and Posidonia oceanica in Cabrera Island National Park, Spain. Continental Shelf Research, 25: 1339-1352.
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Coastal dynamics in the barrier reef located in the northeastern sector of San Andres Island, Colombian Caribbean. (2022). CIOH Scientific Bulletin, 40(2), 13-33. https://doi.org/10.26640/22159045.2021.525
