Cálculo del oleaje y el transporte de sedimentos en la costa Caribe colombiana

Authors

  • Luis Giraldo Dirección de Estudios Ambientales Marinos Centro de Investigaciones Oceanográficas e Hidrográficas
  • Serguei Lonin Dirección de Estudios Ambientales Marinos Centro de Investigaciones Oceanográficas e Hidrográficas

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26640/22159045.91

Keywords:

Colombia, Barranquilla, Galerazamba, mathematical model, waves

Abstract

This paper introduces the results of applying the "Hindcast Shallow Water Waves" model to the colombian coast, sector from Galerazamba through Barranquilla. Using the wave energy and its variation in the grid points, the model was completed with a stream function, litoral drift and wave stream routines.

It has been identified two sectors with the following characteristics: The first one extends from Bocas de Ceniza to Morro Hermoso, with significant depth gradients and waves approaching to the coast with high energy; the second one, from Morro Hermoso to Lomarena, with smooth bathimetry and decreasing wave energy decreasing. It was determined northwest waves, as the responsible for the more significant erosion of the coastal line.

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Author Biographies

  • Luis Giraldo, Dirección de Estudios Ambientales Marinos Centro de Investigaciones Oceanográficas e Hidrográficas

    Ingeniero Oceanólogo

  • Serguei Lonin, Dirección de Estudios Ambientales Marinos Centro de Investigaciones Oceanográficas e Hidrográficas

    Oceanólogo.

References

Booij, N. and LH Holthuijsen, L.H. hiswa user manual. Prediction of stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents. Delft University of Technolow, Delft, 76 p, 1993.

Atlas climatológico para el Caribe, Central de Pronósticos Oceanográficos y Meteorológicos Centro de Investigaciones Oceanográficas e Hidrográficas, Cartagena - CIOH 120 P. 1997.

Holmes P. Wave conditions in coastal areas, in Nearshore sediment dynamics and sedimentation, ed. J. Halls and A. Carr, John Wiley and sons, Taunton, pp. 1 - 16. 1975.

Holthuljsen, L.H„ Booij, N. and Herbers, T.H.C. A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves In shallow water with ambient currents, Coastal engineering, Elsevier. Amsterdam, p, 23-54. 1989.

Istoshin, Y. V. Oceanología., Leningrado: Hidrometeoizdat, 468p, 1969.

Komar, P.D. Nearshore currents: Generation by obliquely Incident waves and longshore variations in breaker height, in Nearshore sediment dynamics and sedimentation, ed. J. Halls and A. Carr, John Wiley and sons, Taunton, pp. 17 - 46. 1975.

Morales, E. y Campuzano, A. Generación y predicción del olas, Universidad Católica de Valparaiso y Organización de Estados Americanos, Valparaiso, 220 p, 1982.

Raubenhelmer, b., Guza, R.T. and Ligar, S. Wave transformation across the Inner surf, Journal of Geophys. Res, Vol. 101, No. C10, pp. 25589 - 25597. 1996.

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Published

1998-10-01

Issue

Section

RESEARCH ARTICLE

How to Cite

Cálculo del oleaje y el transporte de sedimentos en la costa Caribe colombiana. (1998). CIOH Scientific Bulletin, 18, 39-49. https://doi.org/10.26640/22159045.91

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